UPDATE: In April 2017, I hiked this volcano a second time — and the experience has changed dramatically. Since the 2014 eruptions, you’re no longer able to climb to the top of the volcano. There’s only one small opening where you can cook marshmallows, and you’re unable to see ANY lava flow. If you’d simply like a closer view of the volcano, this is a nice and easy hike — but if you’re hoping to see red lava, I would no longer recommend it. Of course, conditions could change — that’s the beauty of nature, after all!
“Pretty lady, you want marshmallows for volcano?”
“Amiga, please, compra marshmallows!”
Marshmallows? Why are the ninos trying to sell us marshmallows for hiking up a volcano? I’m confused. But then again, I’m traveling in a foreign country, so that’s nothing new.
I think I’ll buy a 25 cent walking stick instead.
We were, after all, about to hike the most active volcano in Guatemala.
Climbing up Pacaya Volcano is a great day trip from the city of Antigua, and something that my friend Teddy and I had immediately known we would like to do. Tours are easy to find and leave every day from Antigua in the morning and afternoon.
We met our spunky little man of a guide, Sergio, and set off with a group of about 25 people.
The 1.5 hour trek, through dense Rambo-like foliage, wasn’t too hard-going and had lovely vistas of the surrounding fields and hills, all wrapped in green and mist.
The trail eventually turned to lava rock and dust, and at one point, it looked like we were walking on the face of the moon… or some other planet. (Idk which; I am bad at space.)
The last half hour of the climb was a bit of challenge, and definitely made me question our choice to participate in “all-you-can-drink-beer” event at a random bar the night before.
(FYI, not really worth the $6, unless you are into urine-scented smoke machines and such a high guy:girl ratio that Teddy feared we were in a gay bar.)

It was a steep ascent up slippery black lava rocks – almost like climbing up a sand dune. I was doing everything I could not to bite it hard, and was very appreciative of my walking stick during the mad scramble.
Despite our ill-advised time in the all-male-all-you-can-drink bar, we were somehow the first and second people to make it to the top. (Not that we’re competitive or anything.)
And we were not at all ready for what awaited us there.
We had read about the spewing lava, but figured that our guidebooks were being hyperbolic.
We would probs be able to see the lava, but not actually get close to it, right?
Wrong.
What about personal safety and lawsuits?
Apparently, not high on the list of concerns in Guatemala.
Because, we were standing ON TOP OF AN ACTIVE VOLCANO.

While walking slipping around on Pacaya Volcano’s porous black rock, we could actually see the red glow beneath us. It was incredibly hot (duh, we were standing on lava), and my legs were literally burning (they remained red for a few hours!).
The soles of my sneakers even started to melt.
It was difficult not to trip or fall, and I’m not gonna lie: we were pretty terrified the first few minutes we were up there. Thank sunshine for the sticks, or some of the stray dogs would have been treated to a nice grilled Susan & Teddy sammy.

Well worth the fear, though. I can’t overstate how cool it is to watch lava flow around and underneath you.
After hanging out for a few minutes, we got a little more used to our surroundings (as used to it as you can be, when your surroundings are spewing the same substance that destroyed Pompeii) and began to relax a little.
That’s when other people started opening their backpacks and busting out… marshmallows.
SHUTUP. That’s why the kids were selling marshmallows – you could roast them on the lava!

Luckily, we had made some friends on the way up who had inside knowledge. One of our new friends, a Swiss dude named Balthazar (yup, really), had brought hot dogs and was kind enough to share them with us.

It was simultaneously the most disgusting and the most awesome hot dog I’ve ever eaten.
Belly full of undercooked hot dog, I then stole a minute to myself. Now, I am not a religious person, but nature causes me to sometimes feel quite spiritual. That moment, with Volcano Pacaya’s scalding lava flowing all around me, was one of those times.
I was completely awestruck by the beauty and power of my surroundings.

By the time we started our descent, the sun had set and we were all hiking in a line with our headlamps on. Well, more like sliding. I longed for my skis, as it would have made my time with the slippery volcanic scree much more enjoyable.
Behind us, Pacaya Volcano glowed, and we stopped often to watch the red hot lava ooze down her sides.
Conclusion: Mother Nature is fucking awesome.
(Mostly in the original, “profoundly reverential,” “somewhat-scary-it’s-so-powerful” sense of the word, but also in the “totally tubular” sense that I, as a typical American, overuse with alarming frequency.)
Climbing Pacaya Volcano, and thereby roasting hot dogs over bubbling lava, is definitely on my list of the most fun and silly things I’ve done.
(And you’re talking to the girl who grew up in the town that was home to the world’s largest pig! RIP Big Norm.)
Next time, though, you can bet I’ll be buying the marshmallows.
Have you ever hiked an active volcano? Were you scared?
Pacaya Volcano (Volcan Pacaya) is a bumpy 1.5 hour bus ride from Antigua. The tour is offered by vendors all over the city for morning or afternoon departures. I’d recommend the afternoon trip for the beautiful sunset and post-sunset views of the volcano on the way down. Bring water, a headlamp, and something to roast!
I am so, so, so envious. I wanted to visit (not climb) an active volcano while I was in Costa Rica, but sickness cancelled the excursion. Now I’m thinking that Guatemala sounds even better. I’m adding this to my bucket list. Thanks for sharing your experience! I’ll remember to bring hot dogs since I don’t especially like marshmallows.
Aw, bummer! Guatemala has SO MANY volcanoes. And, it’s much cheaper than Costa Rica.. so I’d definitely recommend it for your next adventure! It is one of my favorite countries, too — the people there are insanely friendly, and the culture is fascinating.
I did Pacaya as well and brought marshmallows – although you only really rent the stick as the kids want it back when you return.
Oh, that’s true! I kind of forgot about that part – guess I was just glad to have the stick on the way up.
Hahaha! I hiked Pacaya a couple of years ago, and LOVED it. The wind was blowing over the lava toward us, so we weren’t able to cook any fabulously processed foods over the lava (bummer). I did think I was going to get beaten by a 5 yr old girl in a bathroom, though… she was trying to sell me a hiking stick. I regretted not buying that later…
Climbing Pacaya Volcano is definitely on my list of things to do when I return to Guatemala. It seems like a great adventure – I will definitely remember to bring some marshmallows!
Yay! Glad I could help somebody else enjoy marshmallows roasted on a volcano!
I haven’t hiked and active volcano, but a dormant one! My husband and I hiked Cerro Chato in the Arenal region of Costa Rica. Hardest thing I’ve ever done but was totally worth it for the view of the green lagoon in the crater!
I bet this was so cool though, if I ever make it to Guatemala and the lava is still flowing, I’ll DEFINITELY be doing this!
Sounds beautiful, Danielle! Thanks for stopping by!
I must say, I am jealous. We climbed the Pacaya recently and we didn’t get to see any lava 🙁 but we did get to roast marshmallows. Nonetheless, it was still a nice hike and totally worth it.
Oh, really?! Maybe the lava isn’t as prominent anymore? It’s been several years. Glad you got to roast some marshmallows though!
My boyfriend and I are visiting Antigua in two weeks. So glad to have come across this blog post. We will definitely be booking a hike to witness this in person. Thank you!
What’d you think, Margaret? Was it awesome?!
I will be in Guatemala and Antigua on Feb. 28th and would like to arrange for a hike up the volcano. Is this possible. The group I am with will be shopping and seeing in the town of Antigua, but I would like to hike up the volcano.
Thank you,
Meg
Hi There!
Your post looks amazing! My boyfriend and I will be visiting Guatemala in December. Flights have been booked and we are SOOOO excited! Please can you tell me who I would book the tour to the top of the Volcano with? DO you have a company name or website I could use?
Thank you 😉
Hello, everyone,
I am a tour guide from Guatemala, the hiking activitie is my favorite and i recommend to hike these volcanoes in Guatemala!
1. Acatenago Volcano
2. Atitlán volcano (lake Atitlán)
3.Tajumulco Volcano
4.San Pedro Volcano (Lake Atitlán)
5.Santa Maria Volcano
6.Pacaya Volcano
7. Volcán de Fuego
8. Volcán Tolimán
9. Volcán Santiaguito
10.Volcán Tacana
etc.
I offer to do the most popular trek from Xela to Lake Atitlan!
The sunrise on the top of the atitlán volcano, indian nose and san pedro volcano are amazing!
I am a tour guide from Gutaemala and i offer tours and activities everywhere in Guatemala!
If you want to hike one of these volcanoes and are looking a tour guide, please, let me know.
Email: tourguide.gt@gmail.com
What year and month did you go? What was the weather like and temperature? What attire do you recommend? Will be there next week!!
this seems like super fun! just wanted to thank you because I will be using this for my spanish project : ) i got a lot of useful information from your experience!
That is SO cool that you got to see actual red lava there! I am slightly jealous! I just visited this volcano last month and rented a horse to the top. The hike itself was definitely more challenging than I had been expecting and the inclines were too steep for this Prairie girl! But I really loved walking on the lava fields and roasting marshmallows over the rocks. Definitely a worthwhile and amazing experience, even if I didn’t get to see lava. There’s always next time!
Glad you had a good time, Brittany — and you’re right, there’s always next time!
I’m going to Guatemala next month and after this post, climbing one of the volcanoes is definitely on my list! I was in Reunion Island last month and did the 2,5 hour hike to the top of Piton de la Fournaise, one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Unfortunately the volcano was peacefully quiet during out trip – no lava and no eruptions, but it was still incredible standing at the top and looking down into the crater! Definitely one of the highlights of my travels ever!
So cool, Des! Have fun!
i have a 2 year old (on the smaller side) and want to know if you think i would be able to hike pacaya with him in a osprey hiking carrier?
Hi Susan, do you know if is possible to buy the trip to volcano Pacaya directly somewhere around Pacaya, for example “entrada parque nacional volcan de pacaya”. Because we will go from Zacapa and have our car.
Thank you, Tereza
One more thing 🙂 Is the way back same or is it a circuit? Thanks